Clothing and equipment for Athabasca's North Face in Fall

This is the gear I took with me on a route up Athabasca's North Face. October 1, 2001. Temperatures on the route ranged from the high teens to mid twenties, farenheit.


Lightweight Lowe "Dryflo" underwear top

Marmot windshirt Worn directly over the dryflo top, underneath other layers

Patagonia R1 "Flash" regulator fleece pullover

Mountain Equipment Co-op "Pamir" powershield fabric jacket A nice softshell layer with a little more warmth than typical Schoeller fabrics. Nice double chest pockets for easy access to GU, camera, etc.

North Face "Cerro Torre" polarguard 3d jacket Low bulk, decent warmth. Not for super cold environments

Thermax boxer briefs

Patagonia R1 regulator fleece bottoms

Cloudwalker "Ama Dablam" schoeller fabric farmer john bibs Excellent alpine pants, good drop seat design (I added a little more velcro to the top to seal out drafts better.)

Homemade lightweight powerstretch headband

Capilene balaclava

Cloudveil schoeller fabric hat

HB Dyneema Helmet

Smartwool midweight ski socks

Scarpa "Alpha" plastic boots Very sensitive and light. Flexible uppers good for low angle climbng, excellent heel cup retention makes them good for front-pointing too. Mine fit a little tight and my toes got a bit bruised on the descent.

Mammut short gaiters. Velcro kept getting iced-up and tops wouldn't stay closed. Need to add a snap to top for security.

Granite Gear "Ice Sparring" gloves Excellent gloves. Warm, good dexterity, good knuckle protection

Dynastar spring ski gloves

OR powerstretch liner gloves

Notes on the clothing used: This system was about right for the temperatures encountered. A few degrees colder, and a heavier belay jacket might have been in order, particularly late in the day when energy levels were low, and temperatures dropped.

Personal Gear:

Osprey "Aether" pack This is the old-style super lightweight climbing pack, not the newer, heavier version.

Cebe sunglasses

Uvex "pocket" goggles These goggles really shined, venting well, and keeping the spindrift out of my eyes.

Camelback 3 liter bladder with drinking tube (contains Gatorade sports drink) The on/of valve freezes badly.

Black Diamond "Moonlight" Headlamp A great piece of gear. Bright, long-lasting batteries, light weight, perfect

Suunto Vector altimeter watch (worn around neck)

Small swiss army knife

Climbing Food (18 energy gels, 1 cliff bar, 1 large slim jim meat stick)

Nikon 28ti camera, film

Stripped down first aid kit

Toilet paper


Personal Climbing Equipment:

Carbon Fiber Black Prophet ice tools (aermet picks) with extra pick and wrench The perfect alpine climbing tools. Their light weight makes them easy to swing all day long.

Cassin "Eolo" Harness Super light weight, Coordinates well with drop-seat pants, a good alpine ice choice

Black Diamond Tool Holsters

Charlet moser ice screw racks

"Jaws" belay device, locking belay biner

Black Diamond "Sabretooth" Crampons with antiballing plate Excellent all-around alpine ice crampons

locking carabiner

Small piece of a File

Group Climbing Equipment:

9 ice screws We brought extra for protected simulclimbing. Black Diamond express and Grivel 360 worked best.

Camalots sizes .5; 1; 2 Not needed on this route

Tricams sizes .5; 1 Not needed on this route

Frost nuts sizes 1; 2; 3; 4 Used one for constructing a belay above the rock band

3 titanium pitons Not needed on this route. Fixed pitons already in place

30 lightweight carabiners

Pair of 8.5 mm edilrid ropes, 50meter Should have brought a single, 60 meter 9.4mm rope.

4 screamers

5 slings

2 quickdraws